What Does santal 33 smell like, and Why Is It So Popular

My Journey Into the Captivating World of Santal 33

I’ve spent the last three years immersed in the world of niche fragrances, testing over 200 perfumes, and I can confidently say that few have captivated me quite like Le Labo’s Santal 33. Since I first encountered this scent in 2021, I’ve worn it through countless occasions—from intimate dinners to business meetings—and I’ve witnessed firsthand why it has achieved such iconic status in the fragrance world. In this comprehensive guide, I’ll share my personal experiences with Santal 33, backed by technical analysis and expert insights, to help you understand what makes this fragrance so extraordinary and whether it deserves a place in your collection.

When I initially sprayed Santal 33 on my wrist at a Le Labo boutique in New York, I was struck by its complexity. The opening notes hit me with an unexpected burst of cardamom and iris—spicy yet floral, masculine yet refined. As a fragrance enthusiast who has tested everything from classic Chanels to obscure indie houses, I recognized immediately that this was something different. Over the following hours, I watched the scent transform on my skin, revealing layers of creamy sandalwood, smoky cedarwood, and a distinctive leathery undertone that felt both rugged and sophisticated.

Understanding Santal 33: The Fragrance That Redefined Modern Perfumery

The Creation Story: From Rejected Candle to Cult Icon

My fascination with Santal 33 deepened when I learned about its remarkable origin story. In 2006, Le Labo founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi launched their brand with ten fragrances—but Santal 33 wasn’t among them. Instead, perfumer Frank Voelkl’s sandalwood creation was relegated to a scented candle called Santal 26. I find this particularly intriguing because it demonstrates how even experts can initially misjudge a fragrance’s potential.

The turning point came when hotel magnate Ian Schrager ordered custom, smokier versions of the Santal candles for the Gramercy Park Hotel lobby. Guests became obsessed, visiting Le Labo’s Elizabeth Street store specifically to purchase the candle. Eventually, Penot encountered a man at a bar wearing the Santal 26 room spray as a personal fragrance—a moment that changed Le Labo’s trajectory forever. After 400 prototypes and two years of refinement, Santal 33 launched in 2011 and quickly became the brand’s signature scent.

Meet the Nose Behind the Legend: Frank Voelkl

As someone who values the artistry behind fragrances, I’ve researched extensively about Frank Voelkl, the perfumer who created Santal 33. Voelkl, a senior perfumer at Firmenich (the world’s largest privately-owned fragrance house), brings decades of expertise to his craft. Born in Bonn, Germany, and raised across France and the Netherlands, Voelkl’s childhood was marked by sensory experiences—from the pungent barnyard smells of his uncle’s farm to the rich chypre perfumes his mother wore in Paris.

After studying at the prestigious ISIPCA in France, Voelkl began his career composing fragrances that “evoke profound emotional connections.” His portfolio includes collaborations with Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo Boss, and numerous other luxury houses. For Le Labo, he created not only Santal 33 but also Iris 39, Baie Rose 26, and Musc 25. What I appreciate most about Voelkl’s approach is his commitment to creating scents that “touch the soul and bring joy”—a philosophy clearly evident in Santal 33’s emotionally resonant composition.

Decoding the Scent: What Does Santal 33 Actually Smell Like?

The Official Fragrance Pyramid Analysis

When I analyze Santal 33’s composition, I rely on both official sources and my personal wearing experience. Le Labo has never disclosed a complete note pyramid (maintaining their characteristic mystique), but through extensive research and comparison with industry analyses, I’ve identified the key components. The fragrance contains cardamom, iris, violet, ambrox, Australian sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood, and leather accord—creating what industry experts describe as a woody aromatic fragrance.

The Sandalwood Story: Understanding the Star Ingredient

As someone who has tested numerous sandalwood fragrances, I can attest that Santal 33’s use of Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) is what sets it apart. Unlike the creamy, sweet Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) found in classical fragrances, Australian sandalwood offers a lighter, more subtle woody profile with hints of floral and green nuances. According to industry research, the global sandalwood oil market was valued at $163 million in 2023 and is projected to reach $261.7 million by 2030, driven largely by demand from luxury perfumery.

What fascinates me about sandalwood in perfumery is its molecular composition. The oil contains alpha-santol and beta-santol isomers (15-25% in premium oils) that bind exceptionally well with our olfactory receptors, creating that signature warm, creamy aroma. In Santal 33, Voelkl has balanced the sandalwood with cedarwood’s drier, more peppery character, creating what some reviewers describe as a “sawdusty” quality—not smooth or classically creamy, but rugged and modern.

My Personal Scent Journey: How Santal 33 Evolves on Skin

I’ve worn Santal 33 in vastly different conditions—from humid summer days in Miami to crisp autumn evenings in Boston—and I’ve observed how dramatically it can change based on environment and skin chemistry. On my skin (which tends to be slightly oily with a neutral pH), the fragrance opens with a pronounced cardamom spiciness that some might find almost pickle-like (a note I’ve seen mentioned in numerous fragrance communities). This initial “dill pickle” quality comes from the combination of cardamom and violet, which can read as green and slightly briny.

Within 15-20 minutes, the heart notes emerge, and this is where Santal 33 truly shines for me. The leather accord becomes more prominent—not the heavy, animalic leather of traditional masculines, but a soft, suede-like quality that feels modern and refined. I detect a subtle coconut or rice pudding nuance (likely from the iris and sandalwood interaction) that adds unexpected creaminess. By the fourth hour, the fragrance settles into a beautiful woody base dominated by sandalwood and cedarwood, with just a whisper of musk lingering on my skin until bedtime.

The Science of Scent: How Skin Chemistry Affects Santal 33

Understanding Your Unique Olfactory Profile

Through my years of fragrance testing, I’ve learned that no two people experience the same perfume identically—a phenomenon that’s particularly pronounced with complex compositions like Santal 33. Your skin’s pH level (typically ranging from 4.7 to 5.75), oil content, microbiome, and even diet can dramatically alter how a fragrance develops. On acidic skin, floral notes like iris and violet may become more pronounced, while on less acidic skin, the woody notes could dominate.

I’ve tested Santal 33 on friends with different skin types, and the results are fascinating. On dry skin, the fragrance tends to dissipate faster, with the top notes burning off within 20 minutes and the overall longevity reduced to 6-8 hours. On oily skin (like mine), the fragrance clings beautifully, lasting a full 10-12 hours with moderate to strong projection. This is because natural skin oils help bind fragrance molecules, slowing their evaporation and allowing the scent to develop more fully.

The Nose-Blind Phenomenon: Why You Might Stop Smelling It

One issue I’ve encountered frequently with Santal 33—and I’ve seen this echoed in fragrance communities—is anosmia, or nose-blindness to your own scent. The sandalwood-cedar accord in particular seems to trigger rapid olfactory adaptation. I’ve had days where I could barely smell Santal 33 on myself after two hours, yet colleagues assured me they could detect it clearly. According to research on fragrance forums, this is especially common with woody aromatic scents and doesn’t indicate poor performance—it’s simply how our brains filter out constant stimuli.

Performance Metrics: Longevity, Sillage, and Projection

My Real-World Wear Testing Results

I’ve conducted systematic wear tests with Santal 33 over multiple months, applying it in controlled conditions and tracking its performance. Using 2-3 sprays (one on each side of the neck and one on the chest), I consistently achieve 10-12 hours of longevity on my skin. The first 3-4 hours feature robust projection—I can smell it without bringing my wrist to my nose, and people within arm’s length can detect it clearly. From hours 4-8, it becomes a moderate skin scent, noticeable when someone leans in for conversation. After 8 hours, it settles into an intimate whisper that lingers close to the skin.

The sillage (scent trail) is what I’d describe as moderate to strong in the opening, creating a noticeable presence without overwhelming enclosed spaces. I’ve worn Santal 33 to office environments, and while it’s never been described as overpowering, people definitely notice it. One colleague mentioned she could tell when I’d been in the conference room because the subtle woody scent lingered. This is precisely the performance sweet spot I look for in a signature scent—present but not aggressive.

The Cultural Phenomenon: Why Santal 33 Became Ubiquitous

Celebrity Endorsements and Cultural Impact

Part of my fascination with Santal 33 stems from its remarkable cultural penetration. By 2015, The New York Times published an article titled “That Perfume You Smell Everywhere Is Santal 33,” documenting how the fragrance had become the unofficial scent of fashionable New York. I’ve observed this myself—walking through Brooklyn’s trendy neighborhoods or Los Angeles’ hip coffee shops, I’ll catch whiffs of that distinctive woody-leathery accord multiple times per day.

The celebrity endorsement list reads like a who’s who of modern style icons. Actress Jodie Comer revealed in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar UK that Santal 33 is her signature scent: “I was working with someone years ago who wore it and I thought it was delicious, so I copied her—and now it’s mine!” Other confirmed fans include Justin Bieber, Emma Roberts, Alexa Chung, Emily Weiss, and members of K-pop groups like Seventeen’s Mingyu and Monsta X’s Minhyuk. Even Beyoncé featured Le Labo Santal 26 candles in her 2016 visual album “Lemonade.”

The Paradox of Popularity: When Your Signature Scent Becomes Everyone’s

I’ve experienced the bittersweet reality of loving a fragrance that has achieved mass popularity. When I first discovered Santal 33, it felt like a secret—an insider’s choice that marked me as someone with refined, niche tastes. As its popularity exploded (particularly after Estée Lauder acquired Le Labo in 2014 and expanded distribution), that exclusivity evaporated. I’ve been in elevators where three people were wearing Santal 33 simultaneously, creating an almost comical olfactory echo chamber.

Yet I’ve come to appreciate that popularity doesn’t diminish quality. Santal 33 became ubiquitous because it’s exceptionally well-crafted—Frank Voelkl created a scent that balances accessibility with sophistication, working beautifully on diverse skin types and appealing across gender and age demographics. According to niche perfume market analysis, unisex fragrances now represent over 50% of new niche launches, with Santal 33 pioneering this trend in the early 2010s.

Versatility Assessment: When and Where I Wear Santal 33

Seasonal Performance from My Testing

I’ve worn Santal 33 across all four seasons, and my experience aligns with industry consensus that it performs best in moderate to cool weather. During spring and fall, the fragrance truly shines—the woody notes feel grounded and comforting without becoming heavy, while the cardamom and iris add brightness that prevents it from feeling dated. I find it particularly beautiful on crisp October evenings when the temperature hovers around 60°F (15°C).

Summer wear requires more caution. In high heat and humidity (above 85°F/29°C), I find Santal 33 can become slightly cloying, with the sweeter vanilla and amber aspects amplifying uncomfortably. The woody notes also project more aggressively in heat, potentially overwhelming in close quarters. That said, I’ve successfully worn it during summer evenings or in air-conditioned environments with 1-2 sprays instead of my usual 3-4.

Winter showcases Santal 33’s versatility brilliantly. The warm, woody base provides psychological comfort during cold months, while the spicy cardamom feels seasonally appropriate. I layer it over unscented body lotion to enhance longevity, and the scent wraps around me like a cashmere sweater. However, I’ve noticed the fragrance doesn’t project as strongly in extreme cold, requiring an extra spray to achieve the same presence as in moderate temperatures.

Occasion Flexibility: From Boardrooms to Bedrooms

One reason Santal 33 earned permanent status in my collection is its remarkable occasion versatility. I’ve worn it successfully to:

• Professional settings: The sophisticated woody profile reads as polished and competent without being aggressive. I’ve received compliments from both male and female colleagues who appreciate its refined character.
• Casual daytime: Applied lightly (2 sprays), it works beautifully for weekend brunches, shopping, or coffee shop work sessions. The unisex nature means it never feels overdressed.
• Evening events: Increased to 4 sprays, Santal 33 has adequate presence for dinners, cocktail parties, or date nights. The leathery undertones add sophistication without being overtly seductive.
• Creative environments: In artistic or fashion-forward spaces, Santal 33 signals awareness of fragrance culture and contemporary aesthetics.

The only occasion where I avoid Santal 33 is extremely formal black-tie events, where I prefer something more traditionally luxurious like Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille or Chanel’s Sycomore. Santal 33’s modern, somewhat casual woody character doesn’t quite match the gravitas of white-tie affairs.

The Unisex Question: Gender Expression Through Scent

How Santal 33 Wears Across Gender Identities

As someone who believes fragrance should be genderless, I appreciate how Santal 33 was explicitly designed as a unisex scent. Le Labo describes it as “a perfume that would intoxicate a man as much as a woman,” and through testing on friends across the gender spectrum, I’ve observed how beautifully it adapts. On individuals who present as masculine, the leather and woody notes tend to be perceived more prominently, creating a rugged, outdoorsy impression. On those who present as feminine, the iris and violet often seem more noticeable, adding a soft, powdery quality.

Industry analysis rates Santal 33 at approximately 70% masculine / 30% feminine in character, though I find this varies dramatically based on wearer and context. The fragrance sits in a sweet spot of gender ambiguity—it avoids both the citrus-fresh cologne stereotype and the floral-sweet perfume archetype, instead occupying a woody-spicy middle ground that feels contemporary and inclusive.

Sustainability and Ethics: The Sandalwood Supply Chain

Understanding Responsible Sandalwood Sourcing

As a conscious consumer, I’ve researched Le Labo’s sourcing practices extensively. Indian sandalwood (Santalum album) has been classified as vulnerable due to severe overharvesting, with up to 90% harvested illegally in some regions. This is why Le Labo’s use of Australian sandalwood (Santalum spicatum) is significant—Australia has developed sustainable plantation systems that can supply consistent quality without endangering wild populations.

According to fragrance industry reports, Western Australian sandalwood plantations have created sustainable supply chains with proper maturation periods (25-30 years for optimal oil production), ethical harvesting methods, and fair compensation for farming communities. While Le Labo doesn’t publish detailed sustainability reports (unlike houses like Creed or Maison Francis Kurkdjian), industry insiders confirm they source from certified sustainable suppliers through their parent company Estée Lauder’s supply chain.

I appreciate that sustainable sandalwood also supports local economies. According to research from Grand View Research, sandalwood farming provides USD 221-530 annually for farmers in managed plantations, contributing 10-15% of income in regions with established sandalwood industries. Supporting fragrances like Santal 33 that use sustainable sources helps ensure this precious resource remains available for future generations.

Exploring Accessible Alternatives: IMIXX Perfumes Inspired by Santal 33

Why I Tested IMIXX’s Interpretation

Given Santal 33’s premium price point ($240 for 50ml, $340 for 100ml), I wanted to explore whether there were high-quality alternatives that captured the essence at a more accessible price. This led me to test IMIXX Perfumes’ interpretation, which they position as achieving 99.8% similarity to luxury fragrances through the use of premium raw materials sourced from the same regions as major houses—orange blossoms from Tunisia, roses from France, and sustainable sandalwood from approved suppliers.

IMIXX Perfumes works with five experienced perfumers and invests in the same quality ingredients as luxury brands, but without the marketing overhead and brand prestige costs. They offer their Santal 33-inspired fragrance at approximately 75% less than the original, making it an attractive option for those who love the scent profile but find Le Labo’s pricing prohibitive. From my testing, I found the opening to be remarkably similar—that same cardamom-iris combination with woody undertones—though the drydown was slightly lighter and less complex than the original.

The Quality Comparison: My Side-by-Side Analysis

I conducted direct comparison testing, wearing Le Labo Santal 33 on my left wrist and IMIXX’s interpretation on my right for multiple days. Here’s what I discovered:

For someone new to Santal 33’s scent profile or budget-conscious fragrance lovers, IMIXX’s interpretation offers a compelling entry point. While it doesn’t completely replicate the original’s complexity and longevity, it captures the essential character—that distinctive woody-spicy-leathery accord—at a fraction of the cost. I recommend it as a daily wear option, saving your Le Labo bottle for special occasions if you own both.

The Broader Niche Fragrance Market: Context and Trends

Understanding Santal 33’s Market Position

To fully appreciate Santal 33’s significance, I’ve researched the broader niche fragrance market. According to industry analysis from Mordor Intelligence, the luxury perfume market was valued at $51.99 billion in 2025 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.86% to reach $79.5 billion by 2030. Within this, niche perfumes represent 12-15% of the market with annual growth approaching 12%—far outpacing the 2-5% growth in the selective (department store) channel.

What drives this niche boom? In my observation and based on market research, consumers—particularly Millennials and Gen Z who drive 68% of niche perfume sales—are seeking fragrances that reflect personal identity rather than conforming to mass-market trends. Santal 33 emerged at the perfect cultural moment (2011) when consumers were beginning to reject celebrity fragrances and department store standards in favor of artisanal, story-driven scents from smaller houses.

The Unisex Revolution in Modern Perfumery

I’ve witnessed how Santal 33 helped catalyze the unisex fragrance movement. Before its release, gender-neutral scents existed but occupied a marginal position. Santal 33’s commercial success—becoming Le Labo’s best-seller and achieving recognition far beyond niche circles—demonstrated that consumers were ready to abandon gendered fragrance categories. According to fragrance market data, more than 50% of new niche scents launched in 2024-2025 are gender-neutral, reflecting consumer desire for fluid, identity-affirming olfactory choices.

Practical Guidance: How to Make the Most of Santal 33

Application Techniques I’ve Perfected

Through extensive testing, I’ve developed an application method that maximizes Santal 33’s performance:

Storage and Preservation Tips

I’ve learned that proper storage significantly impacts fragrance quality. Santal 33 contains natural ingredients that can degrade with light and heat exposure. I store my bottle in its original box in a cool, dark closet away from my bathroom (where temperature and humidity fluctuate). According to fragrance preservation research, this can extend a perfume’s prime condition from 3-5 years to 7-10 years. I also avoid excessive air exposure—each time you spray, air enters the bottle and begins oxidation—so I use my bottle regularly rather than saving it exclusively for special occasions.

Addressing Common Concerns and Questions

My Final Verdict: Who Should Wear Santal 33?

The Ideal Santal 33 Wearer Profile

After three years of wearing and analyzing Santal 33, I’ve identified who will most appreciate this fragrance:

My Personal Recommendation Strategy

If you’re considering Santal 33, I strongly recommend the following approach based on my experience:

1. Sample first: Purchase a discovery set or 1.5ml sample from Le Labo or decant sites. Test it over multiple days in different conditions to see how it performs on your skin.
2. Consider the season: If you sample in summer and dislike it, try again in fall—the fragrance transforms across temperatures.
3. Evaluate alternatives: Before committing $240+, test high-quality alternatives like IMIXX Perfumes’ interpretation to determine if you love the scent profile enough to justify premium pricing.
4. Start with 15ml: If you decide Le Labo is worth it, start with the 15ml size ($58) to ensure long-term compatibility before investing in 50ml or 100ml.
5. Accept the ubiquity: If you love the scent, embrace that others do too. Santal 33’s popularity reflects its quality, not a reason to avoid it.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of an Olfactory Icon

After three years of daily interaction with Santal 33—testing it in diverse climates, occasions, and contexts—I remain genuinely impressed by this fragrance’s craftsmanship and versatility. Frank Voelkl created something that balances accessibility with sophistication, capturing a specific cultural moment while maintaining timeless appeal. The fragrance speaks to our contemporary desire for gender-fluid expression, sustainable luxury, and personal authenticity over mass-market conformity.

Yes, Santal 33 has become ubiquitous in certain circles. Yes, the price is steep. And yes, there are quality alternatives for those on tighter budgets. But none of these factors diminish what Voelkl and Le Labo achieved—a woody aromatic masterpiece that smells simultaneously familiar and novel, rugged and refined, simple and complex. It’s a fragrance that respects the wearer’s intelligence while delivering consistent pleasure.

In my collection of over 50 fragrances, Santal 33 has earned permanent status not because it’s perfect (no fragrance is), but because it consistently delivers on its promise: a sophisticated, versatile, beautifully crafted woody scent that makes me feel confident and put-together. Whether you invest in the Le Labo original or explore accessible interpretations like those from IMIXX Perfumes, this scent profile deserves your attention if you appreciate modern woody fragrances.

My advice? Don’t let its popularity dissuade you from experiencing one of the defining fragrances of 2010s niche perfumery. Sample it. Wear it. Make your own informed decision. In the end, the only opinion that matters is how it makes you feel when you catch that warm, woody waft rising from your skin.